The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 timepieces stand as a testament to the seamless integration of a rich legacy with contemporary horological ingenuity. These watches transcend mere functionality, offering a complex narrative rooted in Leica's renowned precision engineering, a surprising historical connection to watchmaking, and the expertise of a team of seasoned specialists. Their profound appeal lies not just in their aesthetic or mechanical prowess, but in the compelling story of their origin and evolution. To fully grasp the significance of these creations, one must trace the intricate path that brought them to fruition, a journey that reveals Leica's commitment to excellence in a new domain.
Leica, a name synonymous with photographic excellence, has made a remarkable foray into the world of horology with its ZM 1 and ZM 2 watches, building on a history that unexpectedly intertwines with precision timekeeping. The founder, Ernst Leitz I, honed his skills as a watchmaker in Switzerland in the mid-19th century, imbuing the future camera company with a foundational understanding of meticulous engineering. This early connection resurfaced in the late 20th century with a series of Leica-branded watches featuring ETA movements, hinting at a broader vision for the brand. A significant collaboration with Valbray in 2014 further cemented Leica's interest, resulting in a limited edition chronograph that cleverly mimicked a camera shutter.
The current iteration, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 (originally L1 and L2), represent a refined and deliberate move into high-end watchmaking. This ambitious undertaking was championed by Andreas Kaufmann, whose leadership transformed Leica Camera AG from a struggling entity in the early 2000s into a thriving enterprise valued at approximately EUR 1 billion. Under his guidance, Leica diversified its offerings while preserving its distinct identity, leading to the establishment of Ernst Leitz Werkstätten GmbH, dedicated to horological and accessory ventures. This division, now led by Henrik Ekdahl and bolstered by the appointment of veteran designer Gerd Plange, underscores Leica's serious commitment to creating exceptional watches from the ground up.
The ZM 1 and ZM 2 models share an identical stainless-steel casing, measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.5mm in thickness. Despite their substantial size, the design cleverly integrates a highly domed sapphire crystal, a recessed caseback, and subtly sloped lugs, allowing them to wear comfortably and appear more compact on the wrist. The side profile intentionally evokes the characteristic top plate of a Leica M camera, a nod to the brand's iconic design language. The overall aesthetic, envisioned by Professor Achim Heine, reflects the tangible and sensory connection typically experienced with a Leica camera, prioritizing user interaction and a refined tactile experience. The case construction features a sophisticated assembly, with components screwed together from both sides and a slim bezel secured from above. The finish combines sandblasting, brushing, and polished accents, creating a nuanced visual appeal. The knurled crowns, reminiscent of Leica camera controls, provide distinct haptic feedback. A pusher at 2 o'clock facilitates rapid date adjustments, a practical feature addressing common frustrations with traditional crown-operated mechanisms. The ZM 2 further incorporates a crown at 4 o'clock for its secondary time zone function. With a realistic water resistance of 50 meters, the watches are built for everyday wear while maintaining their intricate mechanical integrity.
The watch faces of both models are characterized by their serene, easy-to-read layout, embodying the quintessential Leica aesthetic. They feature matte surfaces adorned with applied indices and typography inspired by the classic Leica M6 camera. The diamond-cut, rhodium-plated baton-style hands and indices forgo luminescence, prioritizing a clean, minimalist appearance over a "tool-watch" aesthetic. Both models display central hours and minutes, a small red running seconds hand at 6 o'clock, and a discreet date aperture at 3 o'clock. A patented power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock mirrors a camera shutter, opening and closing symmetrically. A subtle movement status indicator near the center changes from white to red, signifying whether the watch is running or stopped. The ZM 2 distinguishes itself with an internal rotating 12-hour ring for its second time zone, complemented by a subtle day/night indicator, offering an intuitive and characteristic approach to GMT functionality.
A core innovation across both timepieces is Leica's patented push-crown mechanism, developed by Reinhard Meis, formerly of A. Lange & Söhne. A single press of this crown halts the movement, resets the seconds hand to zero, and illuminates the status indicator in red. A subsequent press reactivates the watch. This sophisticated function is achieved through a locking differential and a column wheel, a design more akin to chronograph engineering than conventional setting systems. The push-crown is adorned with a red ceramic inlay, a design element reminiscent of Leica cameras, and a departure from the ruby cabochon seen on earlier L1 and L2 prototypes. This updated design imparts a sleek, monopusher-chronograph aesthetic. The ZM 1 is powered by the hand-wound Calibre LH-10, while the ZM 2 houses the LH-20, which integrates GMT functionality. Both movements were conceived by Meis, refined in collaboration with Andreas Strehler, and manufactured by Lehmann Präzision in Germany, with minimal components sourced from an unreleased Eterna movement. Lehmann, a specialist in precision manufacturing, also crafts the cases and dials. Both calibres boast a 60-hour power reserve, operate at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and are regulated in five positions. The movement's finish is intentionally industrial, reflecting the functional beauty of Leica's camera components rather than traditional haute horlogerie embellishments.
The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 watches are notable for their refined yet innovative approach, exuding a quiet confidence rather than overt display. They represent a convincing entry by a non-traditional watch brand into the contemporary horological landscape, offering a unique blend of German precision, distinctive design, and meticulous craftsmanship. These timepieces are not for everyone, not solely due to their price point, but because of their distinct conceptualization. They appeal to an audience that values understated elegance and a deep appreciation for engineered artistry, echoing the same discerning qualities that draw individuals to Leica's photographic instruments. For those who resonate with this allure, a Leica watch becomes a natural extension of a lifestyle characterized by thoughtful and informed choices, offering a subtle reward upon closer examination.