Casa Plaj: A Coastal Retreat by extrastudio in Portugal

Nestled high on a ridge overlooking the majestic Atlantic coast of Portugal, Casa Plaj emerges as a vision of architectural harmony, a striking red form set against a verdant landscape. Crafted by the Lisbon-based firm extrastudio for a young family, this dwelling functions not only as a tranquil retreat but also as an architectural exploration. Its development unfolded gradually, an iterative process deeply responsive to the prevailing winds, natural light, and the passage of time. This project beautifully exemplifies architecture as an ongoing journey, shaped by collaborative dialogue, deeply rooted in the inherent characteristics of its location, and always open to further refinement.

Situated an hour northwest of Lisbon, on a ridge in Atalaia de Cima, Casa Plaj commands views of a gentle valley extending towards the sea. Its form, reminiscent of a child's drawing of a house, stands with clear lines against the landscape, subtly angled like a landlocked spacecraft. The building's earthy, reddish-pink color is equally fundamental, integrating it seamlessly with its surroundings. Conceived by extrastudio for a family of four and occasionally rented out for holidays, the house reflects a careful consideration of a changing environment—a region once known for its fruit orchards, now seeing increasing urban growth.

João Caldeira Ferrão, a co-founder of extrastudio, elaborates on their approach: “We aimed to create a structure that would better resonate with the existing local village, demonstrating the possibilities within such an area.” Consequently, the house was designed to blend gently into its site, capitalizing on the natural splendor of the location. The atmosphere is imbued with a sense of rural nostalgia, marked by distant church bells, the invigorating scent of sea air, and the persistent wind. “It feels as though the ocean is truly part of the home,” Ferrão remarks. “There's a palpable distance from daily life, encouraging a slower pace. The moment you arrive, your mood shifts; you connect with the earth, experiencing an immediate sense of detachment.”

This guiding principle, of responding to a place rather than imposing upon it, has consistently informed extrastudio's philosophy. Caldeira Ferrão and João Costa Ribeiro first met during their architecture studies in Lisbon, where they began participating in competitions, driven by a spirit of creative freedom. Their experience at OMA in Rotterdam in 1999 left a profound impact. While Caldeira Ferrão later worked with Herzog & de Meuron in Switzerland, a pivotal moment brought the two back together. He recalls, “We had to decide if we were prepared to make our own mistakes.” In 2003, a significant commission led them to establish their own studio, confident that trusting their instincts was a worthwhile risk. “Such impulses can be quite naive,” he muses, adding, “Naivete is crucial in life. If you meticulously evaluate every aspect, you might never embark on anything meaningful.”

This crucial decision laid the groundwork for extrastudio, which now comprises seven individuals operating from a sunlit space in Lisbon's Belém—a neighborhood Caldeira Ferrão describes as “situated between a very upscale area and a declining working-class district.” He notes, “We truly work at the edge of it.” The studio environment is hands-on and informal—a “delightful mess,” filled with material samples and ongoing studies that illustrate their highly engaged, two-part design process.

In contrast to the traditional separation of design and construction—where a building follows a blueprint, and construction documents guide the build—extrastudio views the construction phase as an integral continuation of the design process. They collaborate closely with builders, craftspeople, and clients, refining materials, finishes, and connections as the project evolves. Elements are often left flexible until the moment of installation. This iterative approach allows materials to adapt directly to the climate and site conditions, enabling clients to observe their home's evolution without unforeseen outcomes. “It opens up a wealth of possibilities,” Caldeira Ferrão explains.

He further adds, “We build in the south, within a Mediterranean culture accustomed to scarcity. Resources have always been limited and used with great care. Yet, we are also part of a culture that skillfully creates complexity, beauty, and elegance from these constraints. In many respects, it's an open and welcoming culture, centered on life's essentials: family, food, and friends. There's a sense of openness and liberty that we strive to incorporate into our projects, echoing this lifestyle where things tend to be more tangible, unpretentious, and grounded.”

The initial discussions for Casa Plaj took place during a family vacation. While traveling in Switzerland, Caldeira Ferrão received an email from Anna and Paul, a couple from Munich interested in commissioning a holiday home. He proposed they meet in Bregenz, at the Peter Zumthor-designed Kunsthaus. Looking back, the timing felt providential, occurring just before the first pandemic lockdowns of 2020. The mandate was to create a holiday home where the family could enjoy extended stays, both in summer and winter, with the option for occasional rentals. Only the structural footprint was predetermined; everything else remained open to interpretation.

The design eventually took shape through extrastudio's dynamic design process, which commenced in 2022. “We were exploring and discovering it together,” says Caldeira Ferrão. The house's distinctive red hue, achieved with pigmented lime mortar, was inspired by an unplanned moment. He recalls, “During construction, we sent weekly images to Anna and Paul. One evening, I visited very late. The entire scene was bathed in a reddish-pink light. They absolutely loved the effect.”

The transition from the house to the pool was re-evaluated midway through the project. What was initially a “blank and desolate corner” transformed into something more. A window was introduced, followed by colored glass. “When you enter the pool area, we wanted to evoke not just surprise, but a sense of encountering something entirely new.” Red was chosen, casting a warm, altered perspective of the external world. “You've never experienced the outside world through a red filter.” Even in winter, it brings a sense of vibrancy and escape. “It's just a small narrative, a minor detail, but also profoundly beautiful.” Other elements also evolved—the timber, interior textures, the gate—integrating previously overlooked spaces into a cohesive whole.

Inside, the chosen materials are natural and unadorned, intended to anchor the house through the changing seasons and, as Caldeira Ferrão describes it, “to disconnect from daily routines.” In warmer months, the space feels expansive; in winter, it becomes more intimate. Floors are made of polished concrete, and walls are hand-plastered with an intentionally imperfect finish. “The entire house features a base coat of plaster that is not meant to be flawless, incorporating a significant amount of manual craftsmanship.” Oak veneer, subtly washed in a soft grey, ensures that the meticulously crafted joinery remains understated. Silver travertine marks key transitions, while the kitchen island is carved from Mármore Verde Serpa, a unique Portuguese marble showcasing shifting tones of grey, blue, green, and white. Light is introduced thoughtfully. The east-facing guest bedroom receives only brief morning sun, so a series of oculi were designed to filter light through the living room and bathroom. “These forms are essentially cones of light,” Caldeira Ferrão explains. “It's very subtle, simply a way to enhance the quality of light.”

The residence facilitates both activity and repose. The terraces flow continuously, allowing occupants to shift to another side if the wind changes. Everyone can discover their own private nook, fostering a sense of “possibility and freedom.” The kitchen stands as the central hub, and Anna's favorite space. “It's not every day you can cook right by the ocean.” This perfectly symmetrical room opens in three directions, boasting an impressive height of approximately ten meters. Every window is designed to slide entirely into the walls, leaving “no visible traces of glass.” From a high rear window, daylight streams in from above, drawing the eye upwards and highlighting the full volume of the space.

Caldeira Ferrão views the architect's role as akin to that of a biographer, transforming “the intentions, aspirations, and choices made with clients into a physical structure. Anything meaningful is integrated into a house and expressed through its very fabric.” These elements might appear quite common, even mundane. He acknowledges, “It truly takes ingenuity to create something significant from every opportunity. We strive to advance each commission further.” For extrastudio, achieving this ingenuity relies on collaboration. “You work for and alongside others. You communicate through collective effort. In that sense, it's a more collaborative endeavor. This connection is truly remarkable.” The client, the builder, the architect—each plays an essential role in the project. “We value these relationships,” says Caldeira Ferrão, who regards every project as a shared odyssey, “like a voyage in a boat. We only cease when we reach the opposite shore.”

On that distant shore, the ridge of Atalaia de Cima, gazing westward across the Atlantic, enveloped by tranquility and sea air, this journey finds its culmination: a home that took shape through the very act of building, offering a sanctuary for its family and guests throughout all seasons, and standing as one of extrastudio's most cherished accomplishments. When prompted to consider the house's lasting legacy, Caldeira Ferrão replies, “As everything increasingly becomes digital, perhaps architecture is gaining renewed importance. Just as we marvel at the homes in Pompeii, we hope Casa Plaj, like our other works, will beautifully reflect how people lived.&rdqu